Georgia, with its breathtaking landscapes and deeply rooted winemaking heritage spanning over 8000 years, is emerging as a captivating travel destination. The country's unique qvevri winemaking method, recognized by UNESCO, has long been a male-dominated field. However, a quiet revolution is underway as a new generation of women winemakers is breaking barriers, embracing organic practices, and reviving forgotten indigenous grape varieties. These inspiring women are not only crafting exceptional natural wines but also redefining the industry's landscape, attracting global attention and offering travelers an authentic taste of Georgian hospitality.
Baia Abuladze, a co-owner of Baia's Wine in the Imereti region, stands as a testament to this transformative movement. Her journey began in 2015 when she established her winery, a pioneering effort in a region where female winemakers were previously rare. Having studied agriculture in Tbilisi, Abuladze returned to her ancestral village of Obcha, where she, along with her siblings Gvantsa and Giorgi, is dedicated to sustainable viticulture. Their focus on endemic Imeretian grape varieties like Tsitska, Tsolikouri, and Krakhuna, combined with organic farming methods, has brought international acclaim to their natural wines. Abuladze emphasizes that while women have always played a role in winemaking, their leadership and visibility in the industry are now stronger than ever, inspiring others across Georgia's diverse wine regions.
Imereti, though not as widely recognized as other Georgian wine regions, possesses a unique small-scale farming tradition that contributes to its distinct terroir. Abuladze explains that the region's humid conditions, balanced by moisture-retaining clay soil, result in grapes with medium acidity, yielding fresh and floral wines. These wines perfectly complement the rich flavors of traditional Georgian cuisine. Visitors to Baia's Wine can enjoy tours of the property, followed by a generous spread of homemade Georgian dishes featuring local Imeretian specialties like nigvziani badrijani, all while overlooking the picturesque vineyards. The option for an overnight stay with breakfast amidst this idyllic setting further enhances the immersive experience.
In the lesser-known Samegrelo region, Keto Ninidze leads the Oda Family Winery with an all-female team, embodying the region's warm hospitality. Ninidze, who moved to Samegrelo with her husband Zaza Gagua, transformed a non-existent vineyard into a thriving winery. During the Soviet era, winemaking in this humid climate was discouraged, leading to the replacement of vineyards with hazelnut trees and tea bushes. Despite lacking formal winemaking education, Ninidze's journalistic background ignited her passion for wine. Her experimental approach to natural winemaking, focusing on indigenous Samegrelian grapes like Ojaleshi and Imeretian varieties, has proven highly successful, captivating a growing audience interested in authentic, low-intervention wines.
Ninidze's influence extends beyond her winery. In 2015, she authored \"A Gently Fermenting Revolution: Women in Georgian Wine Business,\" chronicling the increasing prominence of women in the industry. She observes that natural wine, with its less formal and more liberal ethos, has provided a crucial entry point for women to enter a traditionally patriarchal field, allowing them to pursue niche projects and organic practices without needing extensive formal training or family lineage in winemaking. Oda Family Winery offers wine tastings and cooking classes, culminating in a Megrelian lunch featuring dishes like elarji, prepared with organic garden produce, all expertly paired with Ninidze's natural wines.
Meanwhile, in Kakheti, Georgia's most renowned wine region, often dubbed \"Little Tuscany,\" Ana Berakishvili presides over Berika's Winery. Located in the small village of Velistsikhe, her family home and 35 hectares of vineyards are a testament to Kakheti's rich agricultural bounty. Berakishvili, a fifth-generation landowner, is the first in her family to sell wine commercially and manage the winery herself. Challenging the male-dominated industry from a young age, she specialized in classical Kakhetian wines using local grape varieties such as Rkatsiteli and Saperavi. Her return to rural life after studying public administration highlights a growing trend among young Georgians to reconnect with their roots and revitalize traditional crafts.
Berakishvili notes the increasing popularity of natural wines, especially after the Soviet era's emphasis on quantity over quality. Drawing inspiration from Europe, she has also ventured into producing pét-nat. Today, she is a fervent advocate for Georgian wine traditions, particularly the qvevri method, which originated in Kakheti. Guests at Berika's Winery can enjoy property tours, wine tastings, and traditional Kakhetian lunches, complete with classic dishes like cucumber tomato salad with local sunflower oil, all enjoyed against the stunning backdrop of the Caucasus Mountains. These women winemakers are not just producing wine; they are preserving heritage, fostering innovation, and building a vibrant, inclusive future for Georgian viticulture.