Embracing African Craft: A New Era for Global Fashion Manufacturing
Designer Tia Adeola's Vision for Nigerian Craftsmanship
After a decade of cultivating her distinctive label in New York, designer Tia Adeola is relocating her entire production network to Nigeria. Her upcoming Fall/Winter 2025 collection, aptly named "From Lagos with Love," will showcase local artistry and Nigerian heritage, featuring elements like cowrie shell beadwork and screen-printed Ankara fabrics on satin. Adeola is also fostering collaboration with local creative professionals, encompassing models, photographers, and beauty teams. She views this move as an opportunity to channel her ten years of experience back into Lagos, stating, "There’s so much talent here, but the infrastructure hasn’t caught up yet. Many people don’t even have phones with cameras, so I had to be physically present every day, checking every piece myself. It’s been challenging, but it’s also rewarding because by showing up, I’m helping to build something that lasts."
The Rise of West Africa as a Fashion Production Hub
Adeola's initiative reflects a broader movement of brands committed to strengthening the local manufacturing infrastructure across West Africa, thereby establishing it as a significant sourcing market for fashion. This endeavor is monumental and intricate, yet this generation of designers perceives a unique chance to introduce the region’s abundant textile legacy to the international arena, ranging from traditional indigo dyeing techniques to advanced pattern-making methodologies. Esteemed international luxury brands are increasingly recognizing this potential. Anya Hindmarch, for instance, partnered with Lagos-based Dye Lab in 2023 on an exclusive line of hand-dyed kaftan dresses. Karl Lagerfeld, in collaboration with sustainability advocate Amber Valletta and the Ethical Fashion Initiative (EFI), unveiled a limited-edition tote crafted from handwoven fabrics sourced from Burkina Faso and manufactured in Kenya. In Ghana, DTRT Apparel Group is producing garments for global brands, supported by the International Finance Corporation (IFC) to expand sustainable textile production throughout the region.
Navigating Challenges and Opportunities in African Manufacturing
As brands seek to diversify their supply chains away from Asian-centric models, a trend accelerated by trade disputes and tariffs, Africa is emerging as a compelling alternative manufacturing base. North African regions, including Morocco, Tunisia, and Egypt, have become centers for rapid apparel production, while East African countries like Ethiopia and Kenya have attracted investments in large-scale garment manufacturing. However, this transition is not without its risks. Bangladesh offered a similar promise in the 1990s with low costs and developmental potential, followed by Cambodia and Vietnam in the 2000s. Each instance saw initial optimism about ethical development eventually give way to familiar patterns: downward pressure on wages, inadequate labor protections, and brands prioritizing cost over working conditions. West Africa currently faces challenges with minimum wages, which are significantly lower than those in other manufacturing hubs. Many African nations currently possess less developed labor regulations and limited union representation in the apparel sector, raising concerns about whether the continent's expanding role in garment production might replicate the "race to the bottom" dynamics observed in Asia. Logistical constraints also pose significant hurdles, including underdeveloped manufacturing industries, unpredictable lead times, and the export of raw cotton instead of domestic processing. Power instability, port congestion, and limited technical training further restrict scalability. As Vikas Budhiraja of Arise Textile Park & Apparel notes, "To fill this gap, we need to ensure control over all factors crucial for building a sustainable ecosystem — raw material availability, power, skilling, logistics, nearshoring, customer networks and government policy implementation."
Geographic Advantages and Collaborative Frameworks
Despite these challenges, the region benefits from its proximity to European and US markets through Atlantic ports, and a burgeoning ecosystem of vertically integrated facilities like DTRT. Countries such as Ghana, Nigeria, and Côte d'Ivoire are also leveraging intra-African trade frameworks like the AfCFTA, which aim to reduce tariffs and foster cross-border production networks. While Western brands might hesitate due to informal supply structures, language barriers, and relationship-driven operations, local brands assert that these gaps can be bridged with trust, strong social infrastructure, and respect for communal craftsmanship. Local industry voices emphasize the opportunity to build a sourcing hub that celebrates Africa's rich creative heritage, stressing that this demands long-term commitments from global brands rather than short-term gains. Examples like Vivienne Westwood’s "Made in Kenya" collaborations, Africa Collect Textiles, and Lagos Fashion Week demonstrate that ethical, community-focused production models already thrive across the continent.
Empowering Local Artisans and Preserving Cultural Heritage
A significant challenge in West Africa has been the prevalent location of many workshops in rural communities with developing infrastructure. However, local entrepreneurs and craft-led brands are actively devising solutions. Studio 189, a fashion brand operating between Ghana and the US, produces African-inspired apparel and collaborates with artisanal cooperatives across Ghana. This partnership not only creates employment opportunities and provides skills training but also invests in dye houses and weaving collectives, thereby bolstering local production capabilities. NKWO, a Nigerian label at the forefront of sustainable design through textile recycling and its signature Dakota handwoven fabric crafted from upcycled waste, is developing a digital platform to map and connect small-scale artisans, tailors, and textile recyclers. This initiative bridges the gap between informal craft communities and larger fashion supply chains. Through this ecosystem-based approach, the brand exemplifies how technology and tradition can converge to minimize waste and empower local creators within a transparent, traceable network. Iamisigo, founded by Bubu Ogisi, is another compelling example of West Africa's indigenous approach. Instead of relying on large-scale factories, the brand invests in decentralized artisanal capacity, collaborating with community-led hubs and independent master artisans across Nigeria and its sourcing countries. This model ensures quality control and transparency while simultaneously building cultural infrastructure. While unit costs may be higher due to handcrafting and logistical complexities, the brand emphasizes that the value of narrative, craftsmanship, and social impact far outweighs external sourcing considerations. Additionally, Togo’s Adetikope Industrial Platform project is transforming local raw materials into value-added products, generating employment, attracting investment, and advancing Togo’s national industrialization strategy. Similar initiatives are emerging across the region, collectively signaling that despite existing infrastructure gaps, the foundations for a robust regional manufacturing ecosystem are rapidly forming.
Protecting Identity Amidst Growth and Global Partnerships
Ongoing partnerships, including incentives for initial skills training, wage subsidies, tax benefits, and duty-free imports of raw materials, machinery, and accessories, are crucial for fostering growth. Initiatives such as the International Trade Center’s (ITC) Ethical Fashion Initiative (EFI) illustrate how this support translates into practice, linking West African textile cooperatives with international brands. For global labels, these measures reduce costs and enhance the appeal of local investment and production, creating stronger opportunities for collaboration with regional manufacturers and artisans. Despite these advancements, challenges persist on the ground, such as unstable electricity and difficulties in sourcing appropriate fabrics. As international brands increasingly seek partnerships with local, vertically integrated labels that source and produce within the region, African designers are navigating how to align global demand with local values. Protecting intellectual property, strengthening artisan networks, and sustaining community-led production models are key to ensuring that growth doesn’t come at the expense of identity. The Nigerian fashion label This Is Us exemplifies this approach, tracing its cotton from seed to textile, ensuring every stage is rooted in Nigerian craftsmanship. They emphasize fair compensation and close personal relationships with artisans. Collaborations with creative communities inspired their everyday line, Uniform Wear. Beyond clothing, the brand actively preserves and innovates traditional practices, such as indigo dyeing and shibori techniques. As international fashion brands become more interested in partnering with West African garment manufacturers and artisans, there are necessary considerations around cultural appropriation. To address this, ITC is collaborating with the World Intellectual Property Organization to provide intellectual property support to African fashion brands, helping them protect their designs while maintaining visibility and attribution in international collaborations. Dye Lab is similarly committed to cultural preservation, experimenting with dyeing techniques to create modern products that balance practicality with artisanal sensibility. Co-founder Ozzy Etomi highlights the problem of designs being copied without compensation or attribution, stating, "Our mission is to educate audiences on heritage, patterns and artisanal practices." By prioritizing transparency and fair compensation, brands can help preserve cultural integrity while creating authentic, contemporary expressions that honor their sources. Despite challenges in infrastructure and protecting local identity, industry experts emphasize that West Africa is prepared for long-term, ethical, and visionary partnerships that celebrate its unique craft ecosystem.