Brand development platform Tomorrow has announced a significant collaboration with Japanese designer Soshi Otsuki, a recent recipient of the prestigious LVMH Prize. This partnership marks a pivotal moment for Tomorrow, following similar agreements with luxury brand Roberto Cavalli and New York-based womenswear label Temily. These alliances underscore Tomorrow's strategic evolution, focusing on expanding global reach and bolstering wholesale operations for its partner brands. This shift indicates a renewed emphasis on fostering independent and scalable businesses within the fashion industry, adapting to changing market dynamics and consumer tastes.
Tomorrow's journey has been dynamic, characterized by continuous adaptation and strategic shifts. Initially, the platform gained prominence by working with avant-garde designers such as Walter Van Beirendonck, Raf Simons, and Helmut Lang. Following the merger with Jens Grede's Saturday Group in 2011, forming Tomorrow London, the focus temporarily shifted towards British talent and occasionwear, partnering with designers like Roksanda and Jonathan Saunders. By 2016, the company broadened its scope to contemporary labels, including Nanushka, Ambush, Marni, and A-Cold-Wall, although these partnerships have since concluded.
A significant transition occurred between 2018 and 2020, when Tomorrow ventured into capital investment and equity ownership in independent designers such as Coperni, Martine Rose, and Charles Jeffrey. However, CEO Stefano Martinetto has now clarified that the group is no longer actively pursuing equity stakes. Instead, the current strategy emphasizes comprehensive services like distribution and advisory support, aimed at empowering invested brands to achieve greater independence. Martinetto states that this transition is actively underway across their portfolio, with dedicated teams collaborating to establish autonomous and scalable businesses.
Martinetto explains that Tomorrow's current selection of brands is less about fleeting trends and more about a nuanced understanding of evolving consumer preferences, particularly among Gen Z and millennials. He observes a desire for fashion that is "less directional but still not boring," moving beyond quiet luxury towards well-crafted, thoughtful designs that resonate with a more discerning audience. This philosophy underpins partnerships like that with Temily, a brand Martinetto values for its sophisticated taste and artisanal expertise. Similarly, he sees Roberto Cavalli as an iconic heritage brand poised for a resurgence, aligning with a renewed interest in maximalism and femininity, especially evident among younger generations on resale platforms.
The partnership with Soshi Otsuki is particularly meaningful for Martinetto, who has closely followed the designer's work for an extended period. Upon experiencing Otsuki's collection firsthand, Martinetto describes an immediate and profound recognition of its exceptional quality and innovative approach to menswear. He characterizes Otsuki's tailoring as a form of storytelling that respectfully acknowledges tradition while fearlessly pushing creative boundaries, expressing privilege in supporting this artistic journey.
Otsuki himself harbors significant ambitions for business growth through this collaboration. He revealed that discussions with Tomorrow predated his LVMH Prize win. He was particularly drawn to the luxurious atmosphere of Tomorrow's showroom and the palpable passion of Stefano Martinetto, which solidified his decision to partner with the platform. Otsuki's aspiration is to elevate his brand's sales to a level that enables him to independently stage two shows annually, ensuring sustainable growth and creative autonomy.
Tomorrow's strategic repositioning reflects a forward-thinking approach to the fashion industry. By prioritizing comprehensive support services over direct ownership and aligning with designers who embody a balanced blend of craftsmanship, innovative design, and commercial appeal, the platform is fostering a new era of independent and resilient fashion businesses. This approach not only empowers designers like Soshi Otsuki but also adapts to the evolving landscape of consumer values and market demands, ensuring long-term success and relevance in the global fashion arena.