Soshi Otsuki's recent collections, highlighted by their visually compelling lookbooks, have cemented his reputation for executing a clear and impactful aesthetic. For several seasons, his creative focus has been on distilling the essence of Japan's economic boom period—an era characterized by substantial wealth and grand Italian-made suits—into a contemporary form. This latest offering arguably represents his most refined interpretation yet, presenting both male and female models in meticulously draped, generously proportioned formal wear that evokes the image of powerful, stylish executives from a bygone era. Otsuki's portrayal of Japanese masculinity, in particular, feels vibrant, bold, and distinctively modern, setting a high bar for his future endeavors to maintain this impressive momentum.
Otsuki's involvement with the LVMH Prize significantly shaped the subtle refinements seen in this collection. As one of eight finalists this year, he developed a keen awareness of how his garments were perceived when displayed alongside those of other designers. This realization prompted him to shift his attention beyond photographic aesthetics. As he explained during a Tokyo showroom presentation, \"Judges evaluate the clothing as it hangs on the racks, so this time my aim was to create something that transcends its photographic appearance. My emphasis this season was squarely on the product itself.\" While Otsuki's fabrics and draping consistently excel both on and off the body, his strategic decision to enhance the garments' appeal when simply displayed was a shrewd move. For instance, consider Look 16, where additional fabric was subtly integrated into the shirt's inner placket, ingeniously creating the illusion of a tucked necktie that could be either concealed or revealed by adjusting buttons. Otsuki clarified, \"This is technically a styling suggestion, yet there's also a designated pocket for the tie. It's about deepening the connection between styling and the inherent qualities of the product.\" Further enriching the collection, deadstock kimono silk found new life in button-up shirts, and 1980s cotton-washi fabric formed the basis for much of the tailoring, paying homage to the prosperous and glamorous period that continually inspires the designer. Through these meticulous details, he successfully imbued each piece with what he describes as a \"quiet intensity.\"
With the LVMH Prize announcement slated for September and a substantial 300,000-euro award at stake, the pressure on Otsuki is palpable. When questioned about his satisfaction at reaching the finals, he responded with a deadpan expression, as if the query itself was absurd. \"No, not at all,\" he stated unequivocally, before breaking into a wide grin. \"I intend to win.\" This unwavering ambition underscores not only his commitment to his craft but also his desire to push the boundaries of contemporary fashion. Otsuki's approach, blending historical influences with forward-thinking design and a focus on intrinsic product quality, offers a compelling vision for the future of Japanese fashion, demonstrating that true success lies in continuous innovation and an unrelenting pursuit of excellence.