Pauline Dujancourt, still early in her runway career, has already cultivated a distinctive brand identity. Her journey began with knitting, a skill passed down from her grandmother. During the pandemic, she rekindled this passion, pursuing a knitwear MA at Central Saint Martins, which propelled her into the fashion spotlight, securing a deal with Dover Street Market for her Spring 2024 collection and an LVMH Prize nomination. This success allowed her to dedicate herself fully to her own label. Dujancourt is also a masterful storyteller, drawing inspiration from diverse sources such as Japanese Shinto votive tablets and a family plant, all seamlessly integrated into a refined, subtly Gothic aesthetic that is uniquely hers.
Her latest presentation on the Strand magnificently showcased her narrative prowess. Guests entered a dimly lit, vast basement, receiving knitted bird brooches, while tall, dried crop stalks created an unsettling ambiance. The show commenced with a dress meticulously fashioned from delicate lace, tulle, and feather-light knits, ethereal and flowing with the model's movements. The collection unfolded with a deliberate progression, initially alternating between white and black, symbolizing her mother's wedding dress and traditional mourning attire, respectively. Gradually, shades of blue emerged, transitioning from deep navy gowns to vibrant royal blue accents on clutches and skirts, culminating in a series of dynamic, sculptural blue creations. This progression was a brilliant demonstration of Dujancourt's exceptional ability to transform knitwear into pieces that are both incredibly light and deeply evocative.
This collection also drew inspiration from a more direct form of storytelling: the theater, particularly Nina from Chekhov’s 'The Seagull,' a character Dujancourt herself once portrayed. Feather motifs appeared throughout, subtly integrated into fluttering fabric strips on coats or intricately woven into dresses in a diagonal pattern. These designs reimagined knitwear archetypes like Argyle sweaters and crochet granny squares, which Dujancourt previously found unappealing, transforming them into delicate, even sensual garments. She emphasized her focus on sensuality over overt sexiness, viewing it as a crucial aspect of her design philosophy. Beyond the technical skill, the collection's most striking feature was its profound emotional resonance. The crochet birds, initially perceived as a welcoming gesture, were revealed to be a tribute to a friend lost during the collection's creation. Accompanying the show notes was a poignant excerpt from Jonathan Safran Foer's 'Extremely Loud and Incredibly Close,' mirroring the collection's artistic reflection on grief and resilience. Dujancourt acknowledged the demanding nature of running her brand, especially while grieving, but highlighted her unwavering commitment. She skillfully presented a collection that explores the inherent contrast between life's beauty and its inherent challenges, proving that her technically intricate designs possess significant emotional and artistic depth.