Mount Desert Island in Maine stands out as a unique and tranquil summer retreat, a hidden gem that has successfully avoided the bustling crowds often found in other East Coast destinations like Nantucket or the Hamptons. Its relative isolation, requiring a journey either by car from major cities or a short flight to smaller airports, contributes to its unspoiled charm. While Bar Harbor serves as a lively hub and the primary entrance to Acadia National Park, the island predominantly maintains a serene atmosphere, valued by both its residents and frequent visitors who prefer to keep its allure under wraps.
My introduction to Mount Desert Island was through a friend's wedding, whose partner had cherished this coastal haven for years. The couple's preparations included practical advice: pack warm clothing and sturdy hiking boots, and don't expect ride-sharing services, emphasizing the island's secluded nature. This visit unveiled a destination rich in history, long favored by influential families such as the Rockefellers and Vanderbilts, and known for its understated elegance rather than ostentatious displays of wealth.
Upon arrival, I checked into the Asticou Inn, a place steeped in history and designed with a thoughtful blend of rustic charm and aristocratic grandeur. Originally opened by the Savage family in the 1870s to accommodate overflow from a crowded Bar Harbor, it has evolved into a premier island hotel. Interior designers Krista Stokes and Mark Cotto describe its aesthetic as a fusion of 'rusticator meets aristocrat,' a style that perfectly captures the essence of sophisticated travelers seeking a relaxed environment within a national park setting. The lobby, resembling a cozy living room with its deep blue floral wallpaper and luxurious velvet furnishings, is adorned with antique wooden cabinets filled with aged books, carefully selected from local and Hudson Valley antique stores. This creates an atmosphere that feels both grand and intimately personal, reflecting the summer homes of past vacationers, or 'rusticators' as New Englanders call city dwellers escaping to remote locales.
Dining at the Asticou Inn's Dahlia's restaurant offers a different ambiance, with a lighter, blush-pink palette. During the summer, guests can enjoy meals on the deck, savoring views of the harbor. My recommendation for lunch is the stone fruit Caprese salad paired with an Arnold Palmer. For breakfast, anything featuring the region's famous blueberries is a must-try. As evening descends and the temperature cools, Dahlia's transforms into a lively spot for both locals and tourists. For those seeking a quieter space, the adjacent Moss Bar provides a more masculine setting with its green walls and taxidermy, perfect for enjoying a warm glass of red wine on a chilly Maine evening. The guest rooms at the Asticou Inn, furnished with luxurious linens and amenities, boast a classic coastal New England decor, featuring cream-colored walls, canopied beds, and fireplaces. Beyond the main building, private cottages offer additional seclusion. The following morning, an iced coffee on the deck, followed by a leisurely stroll to the pool, offered views of the deep blue waters, dotted with sailboats—a quintessential Maine experience. Atlantic Hospitality, the Asticou Inn's management group, also operates The Claremont in Southwest Harbor. For adventurers keen on exploring Acadia National Park, Under Canvas provides a unique 'glamping' experience on a 100-acre site, allowing guests to admire the night sky from their private tents.
No visit to Maine is complete without indulging in a lobster roll, and Abel's Lobster did not disappoint, offering both Maine-style (chilled with mayo) and Connecticut-style (warm with butter) options, along with blueberry cardamom margaritas and chowder fries. Other local culinary highlights include The Docksider Restaurant in Northeast Harbor and the Nor’Easter Pound and Market for authentic, unfussy meals. For morning coffee, quaint options like Salt Market and Milk & Honey are available. For a memorable fine dining experience, a water taxi ride to Islesford Dock, a fishing dock transformed into a restaurant, is highly recommended, serving fresh, locally sourced ingredients, especially seafood. Little Fern at The Claremont also offers an upscale New England dining experience with dishes like halibut and Berkshire pork chops.
Ultimately, the undeniable draw of Maine lies in its magnificent natural landscape. Mount Desert Island, home to Acadia National Park—New England's only national park—offers an abundance of outdoor activities. Hiking enthusiasts can explore trails like Parkman Mountain, or challenge themselves with the more strenuous Door Mountain or Beehive trails, which feature steep rungs. E-bikes are available for rent from Island Bike Rental for exploring the park's extensive carriage roads. Another notable attraction is the Abby Aldrich Rockefeller Garden in Seal Harbor, a botanical marvel conceived in the 1920s by Abby Rockefeller, John D. Rockefeller Jr., and Beatrix Farrand. As autumn approaches and temperatures fall, the thought of a summer escape might seem distant, but for those contemplating a future serene getaway, Mount Desert Island remains an unparalleled choice.