Lisa Eisner's Silver Foil Collection: A Fusion of Memory and Modernity

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Since launching her brand in 2014, Lisa Eisner has captivated the fashion world with her unique and imaginative jewelry creations. Her pieces transcend mere adornment, representing cherished memories, a deep respect for nature, inherent healing properties, and exceptional craftsmanship. Known for her striking, oversized designs and organic forms that gracefully complement the wearer—think totem earrings that brush the shoulders, sculptural 'spore' bracelets, and bold rings adorned with Arizona turquoise—she has cultivated a dedicated following that includes influential figures such as Tracee Ellis Ross, Gia Coppola, and Gwyneth Paltrow. Eisner views jewelry as a gift, not just for the wearer's soul, but also for those who observe it, highlighting the visual and emotional impact of each piece.

Eisner's creative process is deeply rooted in personal meaning. Several years ago, she launched her Gold Nuggets Collection, a tribute to her grandfather, drawing inspiration from his tie bars and cuff links. For this collection, she meticulously sourced 22-karat gold nuggets, naturally formed over millennia, and transformed them into intricate clustered earrings and pendants that emanate the timeless allure of ancient jewels. However, as the cost of gold escalated, making larger-scale designs financially unfeasible, Eisner pivoted to silver, discovering new avenues for her artistic expression. This shift allowed her to continue crafting substantial pieces without the prohibitive expense, aligning with her preference for bold, statement jewelry over delicate items.

This renewed focus on silver culminated in the Silver Foil Collection, an exclusive line developed for The Row. This wasn't Eisner's first collaboration with the brand's founders, Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen; she had previously created a selection of Wyoming black jade pieces for them. The inspiration for the Silver Foil Collection stemmed from a nostalgic childhood practice of fashioning rings from aluminum foil. Eisner began experimenting with similar silver designs, and when she observed the Olsens regularly wearing her prototypes, she recognized the potential for a new collection. The fact that the Olsens, typically enthusiasts of gold, were drawn to her silver creations, affirmed the collection's appeal and unique charm.

Eisner's design philosophy for the Silver Foil Collection was further influenced by her admiration for John Chamberlain's foil sculptures. Chamberlain's art, which involves twisting and shaping scrap metal and car parts into organic, biomorphic forms, resonated with Eisner's own approach to transforming materials. She sought to capture the same sense of brilliance and playfulness in her silver pieces, reinterpreting her earlier Gold Nuggets designs into a range of hammered cuffs, chain-link necklaces, and stud and drop earrings. Items like the silver-foil collar and wave cuff evoke the futuristic aesthetics of 1960s space-age silhouettes, reminiscent of mid-century jewelers like Giorgio Facchini, who crafted cosmic designs in sterling silver for Pierre Cardin. The nugget earrings and six-drop studs, resembling clusters of gilded leaves, create a visual effect of natural growth on the wearer.

Before venturing into jewelry design, Eisner had a background as a photographer and fashion editor. She draws a parallel between her exploration of silver and a photographer's adjustment of lenses to work in black and white. This change in medium, coupled with the interaction of light, unveils new possibilities for the material to express its inherent beauty. Eisner emphasizes the continuous process of learning and refining one's artistic vision, a quality she has always sought to cultivate.

The Silver Foil Collection, characterized by its radiant, tactile, and contemporary aesthetic, offers versatility in styling. Eisner particularly favors pairing these pieces with gray knitwear, sharp tailoring, and a simple white T-shirt from The Row, admiring the exquisite harmony between gray and silver. The collection is exclusively available at The Row boutiques and on her website. At The Row's Los Angeles store, Eisner curated a display for her pieces, alongside a selection of intriguing artifacts including black-onyx mirrors, antique Mexican silver treasures, and white bronze frogs crafted by her son, Louis Eisner.

Working from her 1937 Cliff May ranch-style home in Los Angeles, which she has inhabited for 40 years, Eisner finds inspiration in her garden—a vibrant 'microcosmos' frequented by owls, hawks, and deer. She believes this environment fosters a sense of magic, which she channels into her talismanic jewelry. A prominent piece in the new collection is the re-created St. Christopher medallion in silver. Raised Catholic, Eisner recalls these medallions, often seen adorning car rearview mirrors or the necks of surfers, as symbols of protection. She acquired her first St. Christopher medallion at age 14, giving it to her father for his business trips. After his passing when she was 18, it became a cherished memento. Later, she gifted it to her Jewish husband, Eric, emphasizing that for her, the medallion holds a spiritual rather than strictly religious significance.

Her son, Louis, a versatile artist, now hand-carves the motif on each medallion. Eisner then engages in a personal ritual of blessing these pieces using sage, bamboo leaves, and holy water. With a touch of humor, she refers to this practice as her "ooga-booga" LA style. Each medallion is enveloped in orange Thai cloths, wrapped with white sage, black sage, and mugwort harvested from her garden, and then hung on bamboo leaves for three days. Subsequently, they are smudged in holy water infused with natural oils and medicinal plants, a formulation developed with her friend Haley Alexander van Oosten, the founder of L'Oeil du Vert perfumes. This meticulous process ensures each piece is imbued with love and positive intentions. Furthermore, Eisner's selection of stones is deliberate; citrines, with their warm amber tones, symbolizing wealth, prosperity, and healing, are incorporated into silver cuffs and rings, offering a rich contrast to the cool metal. For Eisner, jewelry serves not merely as decoration, but as powerful talismans and protective armor, reflecting her profound belief in their deeper purpose.

The Silver Foil Collection embodies a spirit of hope and brilliance. Eisner notes the profound sense of brightness and positivity embedded in these designs, asserting that these qualities are precisely what is needed in the current climate. Each piece is crafted to convey this optimistic message. Should one require an actual light source, the collection even includes a 'tree skin lighter' designed with the same aesthetic sensibility, reinforcing the collection's luminous theme.

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