Leila Kelleher, a prominent figure in fashion and academia, is making significant strides in advocating for size inclusivity within the fashion industry. As an assistant professor of fashion design and social justice at Parsons School of Design and the director of its Size Inclusion in Fashion Lab, Kelleher champions the idea that fashion should be accessible to all body types. Her career path has been unconventional, transitioning from an 18-year tenure as a professional musician to pursuing a PhD in biomechanics, which ultimately led her to revolutionize fashion by addressing the specific needs of larger bodies. Kelleher is not only launching a sustainable clothing line for plus-size women, 'a space, in between,' but is also poised to publish the first-ever patternmaking book specifically for plus-size women. This comprehensive guide aims to challenge existing industry standards by providing inclusive sizing, pattern drafting, and fitting techniques, underscoring her belief that 'larger bodies aren't like a Xerox copy of a sample-size pattern, enlarged to 130 percent.' Her efforts are dedicated to rewriting the fashion playbook, ensuring that design and fit truly cater to a diverse range of consumers.
Kelleher's journey into fashion began early, with her first job at Home Yardage, a fabric shop in Sydney, Australia. Here, she gained invaluable insights into different fabrics and learned expert sewing and cutting techniques from her immigrant co-workers, many of whom were skilled couturiers. This apprenticeship laid the foundation for her understanding of garment construction. However, her early experiences also highlighted the industry's rigid beauty standards, particularly during the '90s 'heroin chic' era, where she felt marginalized as a plus-size individual. This personal awakening, combined with her later academic work in biomechanics, fueled her mission to bridge the gap between fashion and the realities of diverse body shapes. Realizing the limitations of standard fashion education and industry practices, she initiated 'Muna and Broad,' a plus-size sewing pattern brand, and launched 'a space, in between,' a sustainable fashion line, demonstrating a practical commitment to creating well-fitting and stylish clothing for all.
Her work at Parsons, where she teaches the 'Fat Fashion' class and oversees the Size Inclusion in Fashion Lab, exemplifies her dedication to institutional change. Kelleher takes immense pride in witnessing her students launch size-inclusive brands, proving that education and advocacy can lead to tangible shifts in the marketplace. Her upcoming patternmaking book, co-authored with Gabby Brown, is designed to be a crucial resource for fashion schools and companies, offering an accessible way to implement inclusive sizing. Kelleher's message to aspiring fashion professionals emphasizes the power of differentiation: doing things differently, even if it seems niche, can be a distinct advantage and define one's career. As an outsider, she feels empowered to challenge established norms, driving real and meaningful change towards a more equitable and inclusive fashion future.
Leila Kelleher's pioneering work serves as a powerful reminder that true innovation often comes from challenging the status quo and embracing diversity. Her journey, marked by perseverance and a commitment to inclusivity, illuminates the path for a fashion industry that celebrates all body types. By integrating her unique expertise in biomechanics with fashion design, she not only creates tangible solutions but also inspires a new generation of designers to envision a more compassionate and equitable world of style, proving that creativity and social justice can beautifully intertwine to create a more inclusive future.