Giuseppe Di Morabito's newest collection, aptly named 'The Fall of Icarus,' serves as the second installment in an unfolding narrative, deepening the emotional exploration initiated in his previous season. While 'Alone with the Stars' gazed outward toward the future of artificial intelligence and rapid technological advancement, this fresh chapter delves inward, focusing on traditional craftsmanship, childhood memories, cultural myths, and personal reflections. Di Morabito emphasizes the contemporary human tendency to rush, suggesting that a necessary 'fall' can often lead one back to fundamental origins. The presentation itself featured a runway illuminated by an artistically crafted sun-like sphere, beneath which a solitary figure appeared to float, clearly referencing the mythical Icarus who flew too close to the sun. However, in Di Morabito’s interpretation, this descent is not a catastrophic conclusion but rather a pivotal moment for regeneration.
This collection is rich with symbolic meaning, intricate construction, and a powerful emotional resonance deeply rooted in Southern Italian culture. Hand-sculpted porcelain bustiers, adorned with delicate rose bouquets—a recurring motif for the designer—stand as symbols of enduring affection and timelessness. The designer shared the personal significance of the rose, a symbol deeply intertwined with his family's history. Pearls, intricately embedded into jersey and lace fabrics, evoke the reverence of church customs and maternal imagery. Crochet work, reminiscent of the baby blankets and bedspreads from Di Morabito's Calabrian homeland, was meticulously crafted by hand, with some pieces even contributed by his own mother. Further pushing the boundaries of material science, garments crafted from women’s tights were subjected to a chemical immersion process, resulting in the organic growth of salt crystals on their surfaces. Developed in collaboration with chemist Sumeyya Donmez, these saline-infused pieces represent a unique segment of the collection, highlighting a delicate vulnerability that contrasts beautifully with the brand's more structured, armored designs. Resin corsets custom-molded to the body, sculptural drapes mimicking frozen wet fabric, macramé intertwined with rhinestone-encrusted silicone cords, and metallic wings further underscored the Icarus narrative, demonstrating the brand's innovative approach to material expression.
The collection consistently explores the dynamic interplay between fragility and resilience. Shoulders were often intentionally relaxed, while sculpted basques provided essential structural support. Wedge boots, once rendered in leather, were re-imagined in silk to echo the elegance of classical antiquity. Baseball caps were elaborately adorned with turkey feathers, ethically sourced from the food industry, and opera-length gloves were cleverly transformed into sophisticated handbags. Porcelain earrings mirrored the intricate form of roses, and rhinestones were strategically placed to evoke the imagery of wings. Latex shorts offered a subtle nod to the lustrous finish of ceramics. Di Morabito explains that these materials are more than mere decoration; they are conceived as "relics," fragments unearthed from a forgotten past. The color palette was meticulously chosen, featuring a precise array of white, black, nude, and deep red. The collection culminated in a powerful tableau: a model assisted the 'fallen' Icarus in his ascent, and together they rose, bathed in light from above, as the sun sculpture gently encircled them. Di Morabito passionately states, “Icarus does not perish; he returns. He burns, and then he flies anew.” While his previous show marked his introduction to the Milan Fashion Week calendar, this latest presentation serves as a bold declaration: the runway is not merely a seasonal obligation, but a grand stage for evocative, operatic storytelling. Contemplating a shift to a single annual presentation, Giuseppe Di Morabito embraces a unique freedom rooted in the enduring principles of craftsmanship, thoughtful time investment, and unbridled creativity. He concludes, “It is no longer about seasons; it is about acts: building a single, cohesive narrative, year after year.” With this compelling second act, the designer masterfully fuses the opulent extravagance of couture with the rich artisanal traditions of Southern Italy and the transformative power of chemical innovation, crafting his distinct vision of renewal through the art of clothing.