Embrace the Evolution: Naranjo's Path to Distinctive Style
Crafting an Independent Vision in a Competitive Landscape
As Madrid-based designer Ernesto Naranjo cultivates his artistic identity, he navigates a fashion industry increasingly shaped by large corporations. He acknowledges the pressure on emerging talents to conform to established norms and replicate the strategies of more resourced brands. However, by defining success on his own terms, Naranjo has unleashed his creative potential, resulting in what many consider his most accomplished collection to date, presented through an intimate look-book rather than a traditional show.
The Strategic Choice of a Slower Pace for Creative Depth
Naranjo's decision to forgo a traditional runway presentation was a conscious one. He recognizes that while runways offer certain advantages, they often impose immense pressure to create an immediate, fleeting impact. Instead, he is committed to a more deliberate and measured approach, believing that this allows for a more authentic and impactful creative process. This philosophy enables him to progress steadily and thoughtfully, fostering a distinctive brand identity.
Personalized Design: Client Feedback as Creative Catalyst
The designer's unhurried methodology facilitates a strong personal connection with his clientele, a cornerstone of his made-to-order business model. For this collection, Naranjo drew inspiration directly from feedback gathered during fittings and prioritized fabrics favored by his customers, such as luxurious silk and ethereal tulle. This client-centric approach ensures that each piece resonates deeply with its wearer, blending structural integrity with fluid elegance to create truly captivating garments.
A Symphony of Color and Movement: Innovative Construction
Naranjo's expertise as a colorist and his fondness for striking silhouettes are evident throughout the collection. This season, he ingeniously utilized wide elastic bands as foundational structures, departing from rigid forms. This innovative choice allows for exceptional mobility and ease of wear, infusing the designs with a dynamic quality that celebrates the body's natural movement. The garments gracefully adapt to the wearer, embodying both comfort and sophisticated style.
Artistic Inspirations and Contemporary Fluidity
The collection draws upon profound artistic influences, with Naranjo citing the sculptor Rebecca Horn and the pioneering dancer Loïe Fuller, renowned for her mesmerizing manipulation of flowing fabrics and light. Fuller's impact is particularly discernible in the collection's emphasis on fluidity. Naranjo masterfully transforms a simple stretch T-shirt through intricate knotting and reinterprets historical pannier-like forms with a distinctly modern and unconstrained aesthetic. Delicate layers of colored tulle enhance certain looks, imbuing the collection with a romantic and ethereal charm.