For quite some time, the author harbored a growing, somewhat private fascination: the classic white Adidas Stan Smith sneakers. Despite their widespread popularity, which often positions them outside the realm of cutting-edge fashion, the author, who usually seeks out nascent trends, found himself drawn to their simplicity and history. This piece chronicles his contemplation of adopting a shoe that birthed an entire movement of minimalist footwear, tracing its journey from a sartorial staple to its modern, recycled iteration. It delves into the aesthetic aspiration of transforming a pristine pair into well-worn, character-filled footwear, navigating the self-conscious phase between 'box-fresh' and 'perfectly destroyed.'
The author's initial reluctance stemmed from a self-imposed fashion credo: to always be in the 'early adopter zone,' often perceived as 'contrarian.' He strives to anticipate style shifts, frequently moving beyond current trends to explore forgotten or emerging aesthetics. This drive led him to revisit 2010s styles, where the Stan Smith, a shoe he had previously overlooked, emerged as an unexpected object of desire. Its omnipresence on the streets of New York, particularly among those he describes as 'relaxed bros' in casual attire, initially made him question its alignment with his avant-garde fashion sensibilities.
A pivotal moment in the Stan Smith's resurgence was the 2014 collaboration with Raf Simons, which elevated its status in the fashion world. While Simons may not return to reinterpret the shoe, its cyclical return to prominence seems inevitable. The fashion landscape has cycled through various sneaker trends, from New Balance and Asics to Nike, Converse, and Vans, even exhausting the Adidas Samba. Each fashion micro-era, the author notes, requires a fundamental, versatile shoe, and the Stan Smith, with its understated design, perfectly embodies this foundational role.
The Stan Smith is more than just a shoe; it's a progenitor. It sparked a broader movement towards minimalist sneakers, influencing brands like Common Projects, Veja, Greats, and Koio. These brands, in their pursuit of the ultimate plain white sneaker, owe a debt to the Stan Smith's original design. Despite attempts to deconstruct and refine the white sneaker, none have managed to usurp the original's iconic status. Its enduring appeal lies in its fundamental simplicity, a quality that transcends fleeting trends.
When contemplating the Stan Smith, the author conjures images spanning different eras and styles. He associates it with a pre-hipster indie vibe—think relaxed faded jeans and plaid shirts—drawing a spiritual connection to the aesthetic of figures like Kurt Cobain, who favored Jack Purcells. Conversely, he also sees it paired with classic dress pants and chunky sweaters, embodying a 'quiet luxury' or high-low aesthetic, reminiscent of Sofia Coppola's style. This versatility speaks to the Stan Smith's ability to adapt across various fashion contexts, though the modern iteration, crafted from recycled polyester faux-leather, represents a departure from the genuine leather originals, a 'ChatGPT-ified' version, as the author playfully describes it.
A humorous anecdote from Alexa Chung, albeit slightly misremembered by the author, highlights the inherent awkwardness of brand new white sneakers. Chung reportedly felt 'dorky' in fresh Converse, a sentiment the author resonates with as he laces up his own new Stan Smiths. The pristine 'optic white leather' of his new pair, he jokes, reflects his 'humiliated understanding' of the initial self-consciousness that comes with wearing unblemished footwear.
The ultimate objective for the author is to wear his Stan Smiths into a state of graceful dilapidation. He envisions them scuffed, scarred, and softened, their pristine white fading into an unidentifiable hue and their original shape softened by wear. The goal is for the sidewalls to yellow from sun exposure and the plastic-like sheen to give way to a matte surface that readily absorbs dirt and spilled beverages. Achieving this desired 'patina' will be a lengthy process, one that requires patience and a willingness to endure the 'painfully awkward phase' of newness. He anticipates facing smug fashion critics commenting on his 'new shoes' during this transition, but remains resolute, knowing that beyond this gauntlet lies 'Stan Smith nirvana'—a state of perfectly worn, cherished footwear that he eagerly anticipates.
Ultimately, the author's journey with the Stan Smith sneakers is a reflection on personal style, the cyclical nature of fashion, and the unique allure of items that acquire character through wear. His anticipation of achieving that 'perfectly destroyed' look speaks to a deeper appreciation for authenticity and the story an object can tell through its imperfections. He welcomes others to join him in this pursuit, ready to greet them with his beautifully aged, quintessential sneakers.