Thanksgiving, a sprawling culinary marathon, calls for a thoughtful selection of beverages to enhance each moment. Rather than a rushed affair, consider it a leisurely progression of flavors, expertly complemented by a variety of wines. This guide, featuring insights from beverage professionals, ensures a seamless transition from the initial greetings to the post-feast relaxation, with each pour adding a touch of brilliance to the festive occasion.
As guests begin to arrive and the kitchen buzzes with activity, a light and refreshing sparkling wine serves as the perfect welcome. While Champagne often comes to mind, value-driven alternatives like Cr\u00e9mant offer similar elegance without the hefty price tag. George Day-Toles, an expert from Verve Wine in Chicago, highlights Cr\u00e9mant as an excellent choice, likening it to 'baby Champagne' for its palate-awakening qualities. He particularly recommends Val de Mer NV French Sparkling Non Dos\u00e9, a Chardonnay-based brut nature sparkling wine produced near Chablis using the traditional method, making it an ideal dry aperitif.
The main Thanksgiving meal, a delightful convergence of diverse flavors, demands wines that can gracefully navigate everything from savory turkey to sweet cranberry sauce. Forget rigid rules; the goal is versatility. Unoaked white wines with good texture, such as fuller-bodied Pinot Gris or specific Italian whites like Greco di Tufo and Falanghina, or even fruit-forward yet dry Rieslings, are excellent choices. For red wine enthusiasts, medium-bodied options with gentle tannins like Pinot Noir, Gamay, or Grenache-based blends from the C\u00f4tes du Rh\u00f4ne provide a pleasant contrast. Ros\u00e9s, whether delicate Provencal styles or richer Tavel varieties, also shine beautifully alongside the array of Thanksgiving dishes. Day-Toles personally favors Le Monde 2023 Pinot Grigio Friuli, noting its complexity and depth, which sets it apart from lighter versions and offers a more 'serious' and 'compelling' experience.
By the time the second round of eating commences, a fresh approach to wine selection can reinvigorate the palate. High-acid whites, additional sparkling wines, or chilled reds are perfect for this stage, providing a refreshing lift that can rekindle the appetite. Loris Jones-Randolph, a Los Angeles-based sommelier, suggests off-dry Rieslings, such as a Kabinett or Sp\u00e4tlese from the Mosel region, with their hint of sweetness. She also points to Passetoutgrain, a vibrant blend of Pinot Noir and Gamay from Burgundy, as an excellent option. Jones-Randolph praises Passetoutgrain as Burgundy's 'best-kept secret,' highlighting its juicy character and affordability. The Bitouzet-Prieur 2023 Grange Le Duc Bourgogne Passetoutgrain, with its heritage from old vines, is recommended for its delightful chillable quality.
The grand finale \u2013 dessert \u2013 calls for a refined close to the meal. Instead of just coffee, sweet wines or digestifs offer a sophisticated end. Jones-Randolph suggests delicate Mosel Eiswein or Trockenbeerenauslese, or the amber-hued Italian Vin Santo. Day-Toles leans towards fortified dessert wines like Port, particularly Niepoort 10 Years Old Tawny Port, which he finds perfectly balanced with notes of caramel and nuts, ideal for pecan pie or enjoying by the fire. Both experts agree that a bittersweet Amaro provides a perfect conclusion. Day-Toles' family tradition includes Nonino Amaro, a herbal liqueur often enjoyed neat or with soda, offering a refreshing digestif experience.
As the festivities wind down and guests depart, there's a final, well-deserved moment for the host. Before tackling the cleanup, indulge in a special, celebratory pour. Jones-Randolph suggests that bubbles are always a good idea, and a vintage Champagne, like Alexandre Bonnet 2018 La Geande 7 Cepages Brut Nature Champagne, made from a unique blend of seven grape varieties, offers a particularly indulgent way to mark the successful culmination of a memorable Thanksgiving gathering.