With fifteen designer debuts happening in the spring 2026 season, creative directors are finding various ways to distinguish themselves. Some, like Louise Trotter at Bottega Veneta and Jonathan Anderson at Dior, have opted for understated introductions, offering glimpses through bespoke red-carpet ensembles. Others, such as Matthieu Blazy at Chanel, have maintained a high level of secrecy, heightening anticipation. Demna, however, has cultivated an aura of intrigue surrounding his behind-the-scenes influence at Gucci, choosing a unique path to mark his arrival.
The Cruise 2026 collection, showcased at the brand’s archives in May, offered subtle hints of the Georgian designer’s aesthetic, featuring faux-fur coats and vibrant 1980s-inspired silhouettes. Now, just before Milan Fashion Week, Gucci has unexpectedly released a lookbook named “La Famiglia,” proclaiming the dawn of a new era. This approach mirrors Alessandro Michele's recent debut at Valentino, where he also surprised the industry with an extensive lookbook ahead of the runway season, setting a precedent for a less conventional unveiling.
Demna's collection is presented as an exploration of “Gucciness,” delving into the brand's core principles: the interlocking Gs, the distinctive tricolor stripes, and a refined, almost preppy style. The collection evokes a sense of "effortless elegance" and "sprezzatura," a departure from Michele’s more elaborate glamour, signaling a return to a classic Italian approach to instinctive dressing. While glimpses of Demna’s signature elements, such as a sculpted bare chest beneath a bomber jacket or a sleek sequined black tank top, are present, they are seamlessly integrated into the Gucci lexicon, offering a more nuanced and personal take on his design philosophy. The introduction of the slinky horsebit-pocket jeans also adds a touch of allure, refreshing both Demna's aesthetic and Gucci's appeal.
Demna’s unique design philosophy is vividly expressed through the lookbook’s diverse cast of characters, a method he previously employed in his farewell couture collection for Balenciaga. Each character, from the impeccably stylish “Primadonna” to the fiercely rebellious “Incazzata,” serves as a foundational, often humorous, concept upon which he builds his designs. These archetypes, for now, exist within the pages of the lookbook. The industry eagerly awaits the brand's scheduled film presentation in Milan, where the true essence of Gucci’s new chapter under Demna will fully unfold, promising an exciting evolution for the house.