The recent fifth annual Academy Museum Gala saw a noticeable fashion shift as a significant number of A-list attendees embraced black-on-black suits, a style traditionally frowned upon for formal occasions. This unexpected sartorial choice sparked discussions about modern glamour and individual expression on the red carpet. While some celebrities adhered to classic Hollywood aesthetics, others daringly reimagined the monochromatic look, employing unique textures and contemporary styling to make a bold statement. This trend challenged established fashion norms, suggesting a new era where personal style can redefine conventional dress codes, particularly concerning the often-maligned black dress shirt.
Over the weekend, the Academy Museum of Motion Pictures hosted its prestigious fifth annual gala, drawing a constellation of film industry luminaries. The event’s blue-grey carpet was a stage for both traditional elegance and audacious style. Among the attendees, figures like Jacob Elordi, Will Arnett, and Jeff Goldblum channeled vintage Hollywood charm, accessorizing with sunglasses that evoked a sense of classic movie stardom. Goldblum, in particular, stood out with his distinctive arachnidan shades, a pleated bib, and an ERL super-puffed puffer jacket, creating an almost insect-like silhouette.
A striking moment was Kim Kardashian's appearance in a bespoke Margiela couture gown. The corseted dress was meticulously fitted, so much so that her ribs were visibly defined above it. Her face was entirely veiled, a choice that, while dramatic, felt less novel given her previous similar red carpet appearances.
However, the most notable trend of the evening was the prevalence of black-on-black suits. This particular ensemble has long been considered a faux pas in formal wear, primarily because black shirts tend to convey a more casual vibe compared to the traditional white. Moreover, there's a perceived risk of blending in with event staff, who often wear similar attire for inconspicuousness. Despite these conventions, numerous stars at the gala consciously chose this controversial combination, prompting a reevaluation of its suitability for high-profile events.
In broader fashion contexts, black is universally recognized for its inherent chicness, often associated with sophisticated, avant-garde intellectual types, like a philosophy professor in a black turtleneck. Yet, the black dress shirt, specifically, has often been relegated to the wardrobes of birthday magicians, dedicated goths, or background characters in television dramas like 'The Sopranos.' The recent gala, however, showcased a deliberate move by some attendees to challenge these long-held associations.
Several stars ventured into this 'noir' territory with fresh interpretations. Tyriq Withers, for example, wore an Armani suit that skillfully balanced casual and formal elements. His monochromatic outfit featured an open blazer with prominent, contrasting velvet lapels and a subtly striated shirt, left partially unbuttoned for a relaxed yet refined look. Similarly, 'Hunger Games' actor Tom Blyth embraced a more sensual black-on-black aesthetic, sporting a YSL ensemble with a sheer, deeply unbuttoned collared shirt, adding an element of daring sophistication.
The key to mastering the black dress shirt, as demonstrated by the evening's most stylish attendees, lies in texture. Materials like silk or satin, with their inherent sheen, can imbue the outfit with a festive, party-ready energy, perfectly suited for a grand evening out. Robert Downey Jr. and producer Benny Blanco expertly utilized this technique, choosing shirts that possessed a subtle luster, complementing their tuxedo jackets. Composer Ludwig Göransson took a different approach, pairing a velvet blazer with a matte-finish shirt, creating a textural contrast. Adam Sandler, on the other hand, leaned into the muted black suit but added a touch of gloss with a striped tie, proving that even subtle variations can elevate the look. Jude Law and Simu Liu also showcased their understanding of textural play in their monochromatic outfits, adding depth and interest to their appearances.
Some of the black-on-black proponents at the gala have been consistently defying fashion conventions for years. Director Bong Joon Ho, for instance, famously accepted his Oscar trophies in 2020 wearing a sharp black tuxedo paired with a matching shirt and bow tie. At this year's Academy Museum gala, the acclaimed Korean filmmaker continued this tradition, opting for a similar all-black ensemble, though he chose a regular black tie this time. His signature disheveled hair and reading glasses remained, as ever, integral to his distinctive style.
Bruce Springsteen is another artist who has seldom shied away from an all-black outfit, particularly favoring those that include a buttoned vest. This black-on-black look has become a staple for musicians, exuding a rock-and-roll edge that is amplified when sleeves are rolled up, earrings are in, and an acoustic rendition of a classic song is being performed, as the Boss did at the gala. It's perhaps no coincidence that Jon Landau, Springsteen's longtime collaborator and a subject in the upcoming biopic 'Deliver Me from Nowhere,' also sported an all-black suit on the red carpet, reinforcing the enduring appeal of this aesthetic among music icons.
Despite its often-criticized reputation, the black-on-black suit is clearly undergoing a renaissance, influenced by the array of stars who confidently wore it at the Academy Gala. This renewed embrace has prompted a reevaluation of its place in formal fashion. The late, esteemed GQ Style Guy, Glenn O'Brien, offered a timeless perspective on this matter. In response to a 2013 inquiry about whether a black dress shirt automatically signals a lack of style, O'Brien mused, \"I've done it, and I don't think I looked toolish. I've worn a black shirt with a dark gray suit in the evening, with no tie, and I felt pretty sleek.\"
However, O'Brien did acknowledge certain limitations, conceding, \"It's hard to wear a tie with a black shirt without looking a little too cinematic, and some guys might pull off wearing a black shirt with a black suit, but it's a little too Vatican for me.\" His nuanced view highlights the delicate balance required to execute this look successfully, emphasizing that while it can be stylish, it demands careful consideration to avoid unintended associations.