Unveiling Islay's Hidden Gem: Where Whisky Meets Coastal Charm
An Unforgettable Culinary Welcome on Islay's Shores
Our arrival on the Scottish island of Islay was marked by a serene boat journey across emerald waters, beneath a canopy of woolly clouds. Amidst glimpses of soaring white-tailed eagles and red stags navigating islets, we reached a tranquil bay. There, Captain Gus Newman, a lifelong Islay resident, greeted us with a freshly harvested bounty of scallops, which he expertly grilled with chili butter. He offered a taste of the sea, first raw with saltwater, then prepared the 'Islay way' with a generous splash of Ardbeg whisky. This exquisite seafood feast, accompanied by additional 'wee drams' of Ardbeg, set the tone for an exceptional stay.
Ardbeg's Enduring Legacy: A Whisky Wonderland on Islay
Islay's identity is deeply intertwined with its smoky, peaty malt whisky, home to ten distilleries and the annual Fèis Ìle cultural festival. Ardbeg Distillery, under The Glenmorangie Company (part of LVMH's Moët Hennessy), has perfected its distinctive single malt for over two centuries, attracting a devoted global following. While Islay once boasted 23 distilleries, Ardbeg now stands as its most renowned, a testament to its enduring craftsmanship.
Ardbeg House: A New Chapter in Luxury Accommodation
Ardbeg's latest venture, Ardbeg House, is a luxurious 12-room hotel perched on Port Ellen's edge, a charming village on this Hebridean island. Each evening at 6:15 p.m., honoring Ardbeg's founding year of 1815, guests gather at the Islay Bar for whisky hour, savoring the hotel's exclusive 'Badger Juice' with its lingering toffee notes. My visit to Islay was punctuated by these delightful samplings, exploring the House's extensive selection of over 500 whiskies.
Immersive Design: Weaving Islay's Spirit into Every Corner
Staying at Ardbeg House is an initiation into ancient customs, appealing to more than just whisky enthusiasts. The island's history and its residents' creativity are intricately woven into the hotel's very fabric. The distinctive Ardbeg 'A', cast in iron, welcomes visitors. Developed in collaboration with Russell Sage Studio, each individually designed suite and room showcases the talents of over 20 Scottish artists. My accommodation, the Fèis room, was inspired by local music, featuring a bed crafted from a deconstructed piano. The Monster room, with its crocodile-skin-like Fromental wallpaper and a grand four-poster bed adorned with metal serpents, pays homage to the mythical 'Islaygator'. The Smoke room boasts a peat-like leather headboard, cleverly concealing miniature Ardbeg Ten bottles. Sage's imaginative design, infused with Scottish humor, creates an atmosphere that is both sophisticated and playful.
A Community Hub: Ardbeg House's Vision for Local Engagement
Russell Sage, a Central Saint Martins alumnus who transitioned from fashion to vintage-inspired interiors, has left his signature on renowned establishments like The Savoy and Fife Arms, as well as LVMH's Glenmorangie House. At Ardbeg, his surreal designs are particularly enchanting after a few drams. Ellie Goss, director of hospitality, eagerly anticipates igniting the custom-built smoker in the courtyard, envisioning barbecued seafood for guests. She emphasizes the hotel's aspiration to become a vital part of the Islay community, offering locals a space to celebrate heritage, dine, and enjoy a unique getaway. Following my visit, the House opened its doors for a community weekend, inviting residents to explore the revitalized space.
Gastronomic Delights and Local Flavors at Ardbeg House
The House's Islay Bar, a cherished local institution, remained open throughout the hotel's refurbishment, now featuring a striking grass-green marble bar and a bespoke boat-shaped chandelier. Evenings come alive with traditional Scottish music, accompanied by snacks and the signature 'The Word on the Pete' cocktail. The 31-seat Signature restaurant, adorned with metal kelp sculptures, centers around a grand, metal-scorched fire table and upcycled vintage chairs. The menu is equally bold, offering rich scallops with sea herbs and saffron-caviar butter, a lavish lobster duet, comforting Arbroath smoked haddock chowder, and a decadent sticky date pudding. Mornings bring a leisurely breakfast of smoked Scottish trout, poached eggs, and creamy porridge infused with whisky. Each room also features a custom handcrafted chocolate bar from Islay Cocoa, a 'Fáilte' (Gaelic for welcome) to guests.
Immersive Islay: A Holistic Journey Beyond Whisky Tasting
Caspar MacRae, Ardbeg's president and CEO, describes the experience as 'true Ardbeggian immersion,' highlighting the deep connection to local culture and people. Whether a whisky connoisseur or not, visitors are sure to leave as admirers of both Ardbeg and Islay. Our group delved deeper into Islay, exploring ancient peat bogs with guide Dougie MacTaggart, and even attempting peat cutting with his ancestral tairsgear. We visited Kildalton Church, a 13th-century ruin housing one of Scotland's finest early Christian crosses, and the rugged Claggain Bay, a perfect spot to savor Ardbeg Kildalton. One serene morning, yoga with Philippa McCallum in the forest by Kilnaughton Bay culminated in a meditation on white sands, facing the Carraig Fhada lighthouse and the distant Irish Mourne Mountains as the sun ascended.
The Heart of Ardbeg: A Distillery Tour and Lasting Impressions
The pinnacle of the experience was a visit to Ardbeg's distillery, where we met Bill Lumsden, the charismatic head of whisky creation. Hotel guests can enjoy private tours, delving into Ardbeg's storied past and cult status. We journeyed through vaulted rooms filled with whisky barrels, tasting classics and experimental blends like the award-winning Seann Chreag. By the tour's end, I was inspired to join the 40,000-member Ardbeg Committee, eager to access their exclusive bottlings. Leaving Ardbeg House after three days, filled with delightful drams and whimsical dreams of folkloric creatures, I happily departed Islay Airport with my permissible seven bottles of whisky, Islay cocoa bars, and mini bottles salvaged from hidden nooks – truly, the Islay wa