Aletta: Where British Quirk Meets Creative Freedom
The Visionaries Behind Aletta: Reshaping British Eccentricity
Freddy Coomes and Matt Empringham, both graduates of Central Saint Martins' BA class of 2024, are the dynamic duo driving Aletta. Named after Coomes's mother, this burgeoning London label is revitalizing the established concept of English eccentricity with a fresh perspective. Currently in its early stages, with this being their second collection, the designers fully embrace the liberation of playful creation and a spontaneous design process.
Authenticity Over Convention: Aletta's Design Philosophy
Empringham articulated their design ethos, stating, \"It's less about consciously trying to 'comment' on Britishness, which is inherently chaotic and absurd, and more about reflecting who we are—two British individuals creating something.\" He further noted that their work often appears eclectic and visually unusual, reaching its peak when it genuinely expresses their authentic selves, largely stemming from the act of creation itself.
The Unmistakable British Charm: Aletta's Distinctive Style
Despite their attempts to diverge from it, Aletta's creations possess an undeniable British-preppy allure. Their initial collection featured flat, rigid, geometrically A-line mini polo dresses that literally stood out at Dover Street Market, their cheerful presence drawing in intrigued shoppers. Coomes admitted, \"However, the journey to achieve this is far from ordinary.\" The captivating appeal of their clothing lies equally in its quality and distinctive style. Empringham emphasized their dedication to craftsmanship, a term he acknowledged as overused. \"We focus on domestic crafts,\" he clarified, \"we aren't master leather artisans like Bottega Veneta, but every technique we employ is meticulously considered.\"
Innovative Materials and Unique Silhouettes: Crafting Character in Garments
Utilizing Kraft-tex, a home-craft material, the designers have mastered the creation of garments characterized by unusual planes, sharp angles, and distinct creases, beginning with the fusion of cotton to paper. Empringham elaborated, \"We've now extended this to bonding suede to paper, resulting in a handmade jacket with a card-paper backing in this latest collection.\" He also proudly mentioned a pair of brown shorts that \"could stand on their own.\" The featured bag, or the idea of the bag clutched in the visuals, was \"bonded with leather,\" Empringham added. \"We initially intended it to be a shoulder bag, but ultimately decided it looked better unfinished and without any stitching.\"
Embracing the Unconventional: Aletta's Conceptual Approach to Design
Conversations with the designers frequently delve into conceptual realms. Coomes shared, \"There's this underlying notion that everything needs to be logical and make sense. We intentionally chose to abandon that logic.\" He further explained, \"It's about letting go of the need for a definitive truth regarding what a garment should be.\" In essence, they are exploring how to sustain creativity through an analog, personal approach, a value they hold in high regard. Their early works have drawn comparisons to cartoon cutouts or toys. Their initial student project that gained significant online attention and admiration was a metal rugby shirt assembled from Meccano, a traditional British children's construction toy.
Shrunken Sweaters and Quirky Influences: A Distinctive Aesthetic
For this collection, they experimented with shrinking cashmere and merino wool sweaters, creating a tight, wrinkled effect around the hip. \"They were initially quite oversized, and importantly, they all shrank uniquely, giving each piece its own character rather than being just another 'luxury product',\" Empringham explained.
Artistic Inspirations: From Princess Diana to Philip Glass
The collection, paired with a red polka-dot midi dirndl and yellow Grenson shoe-boots, exudes the distinctively awkward charm reminiscent of Princess Diana's \"Shy Di\" era in the early 1980s. The designers also cited Philip Glass and Robert Wilson's 1976 opera production, \"Einstein on the Beach,\" which they watched on YouTube, as another influence. This inspiration manifested in elements like gray sweatpants and suspenders, unexpectedly layered with a neon babydoll over a white T-shirt.
Beyond Logic: The Joy of Creative Independence
Indeed, it may not conform to conventional logic, but that is precisely where the joy and essence of their work lie. Both designers interned with Jonathan Anderson during their student years—Coomes at Loewe and Empringham at JW Anderson. Aletta represents an endeavor they are pursuing while freelancing and holding jobs outside the fashion industry. Acknowledging the well-known challenges of maintaining independence in today's world, they approach it with open eyes, eager to continue their creative journey. \"We're simply thrilled to be doing this,\" Empringham affirmed. \"The last thing we want is to be perceived as anti-fashion or believing the industry is broken. If we truly disliked it, we would pursue something entirely different.\"